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Futuristic Workwear at Balenciaga
Balenciaga, AW12, Paris.Nicholas Ghesquiere has a knack for making his job at Balenciaga look easier than it actually is. After all, it is one thing to moodboard up an innovative concept and sketch up...
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The Silhouette behind the Embellishment at Chanel
Chanel, AW12, Paris.With so many looks, garments, different fabrics and embellishments involved in a Chanel show, it often takes a second look to fully digest the entire collection.As a fashion...
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Experiments in the 2nd Dimension at Comme des Garcons
Comme des Garçons, AW12, Paris.For her Autumn-Winter 2012 collection for Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo presented a very flat collection that called into question the very nature of the way we view...
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Raf Simons for Haute Couture
Jil Sander, RTW, AW12 (Left) and Christian Dior, Haute Couture, AW12 (Right).It makes for a rare fashion season when a designer produces a haute couture influenced collection for a ready-to-wear label,...
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Bejewelled Masks at Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture
Maison Martin Margiela, Couture, AW12, Paris.For their debut haute couture collection, the Margiela team put together an unusual mix of fabrics and textures to create an alternative version of glamour....
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Jock Armour and Punk Details at Thom Browne
Thom Browne, Menswear, AW12.The jock vs. punk subculture dichotomy that Thom Browne created for his Autumn-Winter 2012 show gave rise to a battle of silhouettes. There were skinny tailored sleeves and...
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Fundamentals of Pattern Making: Pattern Notches
Alexander Wang, RST13, New York.When a piece of fabric is first cut out, it has none of the markings that are seen on the pattern.For a machinist to sew these two pieces of fabric together effectively...
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Dusty Pastels and Intricate Lacework at Valentino
Valentino, RST13, Paris.The Valentino collection for Resort 2013 contrasted a selection of delicate laces in sorbet shades with graphic stripes and a leopard print spot. The laces and embellishments...
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Waist Darts at Rodarte
Rodarte, SS13, New York.Darts are a shaping device that will often be hidden away in a garment to try to make them inconspicuous, but they can also be used as a feature of the design. The Rodarte team...
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Christopher Kane Texture Frankenstein
Christopher Kane, SS13, London.The influence of the Frankenstein narrative emerged in the recent collection by Christopher Kane in a variety of ways. The sheer magnitude of experiments in the...
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Refreshing Colours and Sports Details at Chalayan
Chalayan, SS13, Paris.The recent collection by Hussein Chalayan for Spring-Summer 2013 featured crisp white tailoring, and vibrant flashes of colour with hints of sporting fabrications. It was above...
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Twists at Celine
Céline, SS13, Paris.The Céline collection for Spring-Summer 2013 combined texture plays with slouched silhouettes to create garments that felt simultaneously luxurious and effortless. There was a...
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Louis Vuitton's Checkerboard Counterchange
Louis Vuitton, SS13, Paris.It was all about the graphic use of counterchange at the Spring-Summer 2013 show for Louis Vuitton. A checkerboard design was used in a wide variety of scales, with minute...
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Graphic Movement at Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake, SS13, Paris.In the Spring-Summer 2013 collection for Issey Miyake, Yoshiyuki Miyamae used vibrant colour, bold graphic lines and incredible disintegrating pleating to fill the sculptural...
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Cosmetics and Surgery at Antipodium
Antipodium, SS13, London.The Spring-Summer 2013 collection by Antipodium referenced cosmetic surgery and fleshy skin tones through creepy placement prints and a variety of textures that worked with the...
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Honeycomb Details at Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen, SS13, Paris.The recent Alexander McQueen collection was intensely detailed, with minute fabric layering and honeycomb peephole details. The Spring-Summer 2013 under the reign of...
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Counterchange at Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler, AW13, New York.Black and white is a timeless theme that is often used by designers for the graphic qualities that can be induced in garments simply by placing the whitest of whites...
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Clever Shaping at Miu Miu
Miu Miu, AW13, Paris.The recent Miu Miu collection was a careful study in how to push a single design idea to the limits, with careful developments of cuts and colours evolving over the course of the...
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Structured Tailoring and Ornate Textiles at Kenzo
Kenzo, AW13, Paris.Cleverly crafted tailoring details were nearly obscured by the ornate prints and embellished textiles that were used in the recent Kenzo collection for Autumn-Winter 2013. The...
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Framing and Peeling at Chalayan
Chalayan, AW13, Paris.The recent collection from Hussein Chalayan for Autumn-Winter 2013 used different techniques and details to frame the silhouette and create layered garments that at times had the...
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