Glossary: Bias Binding at Valentino Couture
Bias Binding at Valentino, Haute Couture, AW19, Paris. One dress that almost stood apart, thematically speaking, from the rest of the collection at the Valentino Haute Couture show, was a candy pink...
View ArticleSies Marjan Jacket Details
Sies Marjan Jacket Details, AW19. There were some interesting details on a style called the 'Haru Twill Waisted Jacket' from the Autumn-Winter 2019 collection from Sies Marjan. The jacket has a softly...
View ArticleBleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta
Bleached Jeans at Eckhaus Latta, 'Baggy Jean Chemtrail' and 'Wide Leg Jean Tri Stacked' from the AW19 collection. There are some collections that are nicely layered with different colours and textures,...
View ArticlePinched Shoulders at Balenciaga
Pinched Shoulders at Balenciaga, AW19. Sometimes it seems like a bit of a shame that there was so much hype surrounding the work of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Balenciaga. Some of the designs that...
View ArticleZip Details from Prada AW1999
Prada, AW1999. Sometimes you see an image pop up and even though it's from a collection that's 20 years old, you feel like the garment could just as easily have been created for a new collection. Such...
View ArticleThe Christian Dior Toile Room
Toile of garment, Christian Dior by John Galliano, Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2007. One of the most amazing rooms in the V&A Exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was the toile room, a...
View ArticleLadies Who Fetish at Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane, AW19, London. Christopher Kane is a designer who knows how to flesh out a collection in the old school way - taking an idea or theme as a jumping-off point and iterating the idea out...
View ArticleRuching, Pleating, Gathers and Ruffles at Houga
Houga, AW19. Moe Ishida, the designer behind Tokyo-based brand Houga, has a knack for creating laid-back party dresses that are oversized, asymmetrical and spliced through with ruffles, gathers and...
View ArticleBurberry Trench Coat Details
Burberry Trench Coat Details, AW19. When designers take over a role as creative director of an established fashion house they are often faced with the decision of how much of the archive to take on...
View ArticleTranslucent Layers at Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha, SS20, London. The Spring-Summer 2020 collection from Simone Rocha featured asymmetrical layers of sheer fabrics that had been gathered into transparent flounces and ruffles. The...
View ArticleRick Owens Jacket Details
Rick Owens Jacket Details on 'Zionic' jacket from AW19. In another article focusing on a garment that has made it through from catwalk to retail», this time the focus is on the Zionic jacket from Rick...
View ArticleTextile-Driven Designs at Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams, AW20, Menswear, London. While some designers and brands attempt to add a sustainable component to an existing fashion business, Bethany Williams has been steadily working on building...
View ArticleContemporary Couture Techniques at Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen, SS20, Haute Couture, Paris. There is a certain romanticised view of what haute couture entails - hard-working ateliers full of petite mains, painstakingly cutting every last snip of...
View ArticleSlightly Dropped Shoulders at The Row
The Row, PF20. Quiet, minimal collections usually require slower viewing to appreciate the details because it is the small tweaks that make the difference. In the case of The Row's Pre Fall 2020...
View ArticleCraig Green Quilted Jacket Details
Craig Green Quilted Jacket, SS20. You have to wonder if there is a psychological advantage to wearing a Craig Green quilted jacket. The quilted sections are like soft armour plates to protect you from...
View ArticleIntegrated Jewellery and Lingerie Details at Dion Lee
Dion Lee, AW20, New York. With fishnet inserts, cutouts, and corset-like closures the Dion Lee show for Autumn-Winter 2020 was peppered with references to lingerie. Custom-made jewellery and hardware...
View ArticleThe Rule of Thirds Applied to JW Anderson
JW Anderson, London, AW20. It can be a fun game (depending on your idea of "fun", of course) to look at the proportions of the looks when you are clicking through the images on a collection. Just like...
View ArticleA Modular Anrealage Silhouette Through Blocks
Anrealage, AW20, Paris. So often a collection is developed from a point where the initial spark is directly related to the final outcome. Like asking a question and knowing roughly what the answer will...
View ArticleConnected Knits and Layering at Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake, AW20, Paris. The Issey Miyake Autumn-Winter 2020 collection led by designer Satoshi Kondo, was made up of a series of smaller stories. These stories explored the "words and feelings...
View ArticleGathering and Ceramic Plates at Loewe
Loewe, AW20, Paris. The Autumn-Winter 2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, featured fabric that had been draped and gathered around central ceramic disks or bold matte black central panels....
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