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Working With Difficult Materials: Part 2
Garment images are from the project “The Garments May Vary” by Nadine Goepfert via Thisispaper»As we began to discuss in the previous post, Working With Difficult Materials: Part 1», there are many...
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Laser Cut Layering at Threeasfour
Threeasfour, SS14, New York.As designers become more comfortable using laser cutting and 3D printing technology, it is going to become ever more important that designers push the limits of what is...
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Pleats at Antipodium, Victoria Beckham & Alexander Wang
Antipodium, SS14, London.Pleats have been used in a variety of ways at the Spring-Summer 2014 catwalk shows, with designers experimenting with sheer fabrics, partially obscured pleats, knife pleats and...
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Vivid Textiles at Fendi
Fendi, SS14, Milan.In an era where designer collections are increasingly copied, textile innovation and signature textile designs become an important way for designers to separate their own work from...
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Suspended Shoulders and Colour Clash at Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto, SS14, Paris.It was an array of disjointed experiments that came together to create the Yohji Yamamoto show for Spring-Summer 2014. Some of the experiments involved careful reworkings of...
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Compression and Release at J.W.Anderson
J. W. Anderson, SS14, London.With a restricted colour palette and beautiful fabrics, the J.W. Anderson collection for Spring-Summer 2014 seemed to simultaneously explore fabric intensive pleating...
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Sheer Styling at Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons, SS04, Paris.At times it can be good to consider how different designers use similar methods for focusing the viewers’ attention during catwalk shows. In the previous post we...
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Subtraction Pattern Cutting with Julian Roberts
Image from “Free Cutting” by Julian Roberts.Many garments are created from flat pattern making methods, or from drape methods, but a method of “hollow construction” has been created by fashion designer...
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Inspiration Images for Subtraction Pattern Cutting
Comme des Garçons. Image from Jane Magazine August 1998 via iiiinspired»Following on from the previous post on Subtraction Pattern Cutting with Julian Roberts» it seemed fitting to collect together...
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Bra Cups and Sequins the Prada Way
Prada, SS14, Milan.Miuccia Prada is one of the few designers who can make sequins read like a feminist statement and make beading and bra cups feel robust and gutsy. The Spring-Summer 2014 collection...
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How To Work Out Patterns for Complex Details
Valentino, Couture, SS08.The Cutting Class recently received a query about how the skirt folds had been constructed on two dresses from Valentino’s final Couture show in Spring-Summer 2008. This seemed...
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Simple Details at Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang, SS14, New York.With some of the simpler and more minimal catwalk collections it is worth spending the time to drill down on the elements at play, and move beyond just “I like it because...
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Contemporary Smocking Techniques
Tightly pulled vertical smocking. Image via Trans.lu.cent»Smocking is a fabric manipulation technique that is generally created by using hand stitching to create areas of tension and release in the...
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Graffiti Inspired Textiles at Céline
Céline, SS14, Paris.In contrast to some of the more subdued minimalism that Céline has become known for, Phoebe Philo’s collection for Spring-Summer 2014 felt altogether more guttural, drawing on the...
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Accessories at Céline
Céline, SS14, Paris.For some of the collections, the accessories seem less like a styling decision and more like an integrated part of the collection. As a follow on to the post Graffiti Inspired...
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Simulated Patchwork Details at Preen
Preen, SS14, London.The Preen collection for Spring-Summer 2014 featured geometric textiles created in sheer, foil and opaque textures, and sometimes layered with delicate florals. While the textiles...
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Textured Layering at Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann, Menswear, AW14, Paris.The recent menswear collection from designer Haider Ackermann, featured layers of textured fabrics on vests, jackets, overcoats and cropped trousers.The looks...
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Trompe-l'oeil Latex at Viktor and Rolf
Viktor and Rolf, Couture, SS14, Paris.Lightweight latex tattooed with trompe-l’œil ruffles, bows and swallows was the feature of the recent Viktor and Rolf couture collection, which was modelled by...
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Ethereal Fabrics at Dior Couture
Christian Dior, Couture, SS14, Paris.The Spring-Summer 2014 Couture collection from Dior was filled with intricate textiles that often centred around layering, cutouts and exquisite embellishment....
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Modern Ruffles at Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten, SS14, Paris.The ruffle is one of those sewing embellishments that can struggle to look contemporary, too often falling into the trap of looking prissy or dated. For his Spring-Summer...
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