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Bold Stripes at Balmain
Balmain, SS15, Paris.The Spring-Summer 2015 collection at Balmain played with stripes in varying thicknesses. At times bold stripes were used to emphasise square silhouettes or lengthen the line of...
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Constructing Voids with Charlotte Ham
Garments from “Void” by Charlotte Ham’s label I C E.There are times when traditional clothing materials simply will not support your design in the way that you would like. No matter what fabric,...
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Pushing Circles at Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe, SS15, Paris.Sometimes it’s interesting to think backwards from where a designer ended up and take the time to consider what the very original seed of an idea may have been. Thinking in...
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Fractured Prints at McQ
McQ, PF15.The Autumn-Winter 2015 pre-collection at McQ featured unusual prints and textile treatments, with trapped feathers and geometric hardware.The prints seem reminiscent of many of the marbled...
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Textile and Pattern Details at Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang, PF15.The Autumn-Winter 2015 pre-collection at Alexander Wang included unusual button positions, spiralling zippers and fabrics with subtle peepholes and gathers.A couple of the garments...
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Embellishment and Painterly Prints at NIHL
NIHL by Neil Grotzinger, Graduate Collection, SS14.In his graduate collection for Spring-Summer 2014, artist and designer Neil Grotzinger created textiles that had an unconstrained and spontaneous...
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Pixelated Faces Play with Scale at KTZ
KTZ (Kokon To Zai), Menswear, AW15, London."Scale", as a principle of design, can provide designers with a never ending treasure trove of options when it is used to iterate a single idea into a myriad...
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Fastening Details at Balenciaga
Balenciaga, PF15, Paris.For the Autumn-Winter 2015 pre-collection at Balenciaga, many of the designs seemed to be engineered around the fastening details, with patterns cut in proportion to giant...
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Bust Shaping Considerations at Balenciaga
Balenciaga, PF15, Paris.Sometimes a design that is very simple on paper can throw some surprisingly tricky pattern considerations at you. There was one particularly simple dress from the Balenciaga...
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Silicone Texture by Lucy Simpson
Lucy Simpson, 2014.Some designers start with their end product in mind, and experiment endlessly until they can turn their mental images into a physical form that exactly replicates their original...
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Ribboned Pleats at Dior Haute Couture
Christian Dior, Haute Couture, SS15, Paris.From a construction point of view, there are a number of beautiful and clever details that have been used for the Spring-Summer 2015 haute couture collection...
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Beaded Trim at Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang, AW15, New York.There are lots of attachments for domestic sewing machines that can help you create clever effects, but often these attachments are dismissed because of the less than...
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Pattern Cutting Details from Delpozo
Delpozo, AW15, New York.The Delpozo collections often use clever pattern cutting details to create sculptural details or to support the silhouettes of the garments. In the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection...
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Bar Tacks and Blocky Panels at Fendi
Fendi, AW15, Milan.Although bar tacks are mostly used to reinforce sections of a garment, they can also be used to secure fabric in just a couple of places. In the Fendi Autumn-Winter 2015 collection...
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Contrast Stitching at Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann, AW15, Paris.Many of the garments from the Haider Ackermann Autumn-Winter 2015 show used contrast stitching to highlight the edges of seams and waistbands. This stitching had a...
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Honeycomb Pattern Structures at Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Junya Watanabe was filled with repetitive structures created with a mathematical sense of precision. While the shapes hinted at a...
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Clashing Patterns and Collar Details at Miu Miu
Miu Miu, AW15, Paris.With tweeds, stripes, animal skins and pseudo animal prints, the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Miu Miu was filled with clashing fabric patterns. It is through a closer look at...
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Ruffles and Gathering at Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha, AW15, London.There are certain construction details that are complementary to each other, echoing each other stylistically to reinforce an idea. One such pairing is that of gathers and...
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Life Drawing at Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane, AW15, London.As a designer, the way that you actually draw or illustrate your designs can be highly influential in the actual designs that you create. For his Autumn-Winter 2015...
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Translating Designs from Sketches: Gravity & Proportion
Cristóbal Balenciaga images from the 1950s and 1960s showing sketches and final garments.Beautiful fashion sketches are often shown as part of the romanticised process of designing a garment, but while...
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