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Bust Shaping with Panel Lines at Dior

Christian Dior, SS15, Haute Couture, Paris.In discussing some of the details from the Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2015 collection», we began to discuss how moving the positions of panel lines can affect your...

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Constructing Roses at Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, AW15, Paris.The rose is a motif that often features in fashion design, but it was specifically the degradation of the rose that was used in the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at...

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Slits and Peeling Layers at Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler, AW15, New York.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Proenza Schouler featured experimentation with fabrics and trims to create layers of texture within the garments. Two main...

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Shattered Details and Deconstruction at Undercover

Undercover, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Undercover was filled with sharp construction details and shattered design lines which were rounded out by rich colours, painted fabrics and...

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Lace, Feathers and Muted Tones at Valentino

Valentino, AW15, Paris.The Valentino collection for Autumn-Winter 2015 appeared to almost be split into two very different aesthetics. On the one hand there was clean cut minimalism in black and white,...

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Geometric Monochrome at Valentino

Valentino, AW15, Paris.Aside from the lacier side of the Valentino show for Autumn-Winter 2015, there was a range of garments presented with minimal monochrome details and intricate geometric fabrics...

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Smocking, Macramé and Modular Patterns at Noir Kei Ninomiya

noir kei ninomiya, AW15, Paris.It comes as no surprise that someone who used to be a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons would produce intricately designed garments, however, based on the collection...

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Soft Structure at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, RST16.The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection at Balenciaga was filled with stripes, splits, sheer panels and details that created soft structure. At times, waistline tucks blended into wavy...

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Nonchalant Construction Details at Céline

Céline, AW15, Paris.Bet you never think of topstitching as nonchalant, right? What about pattern making, can you cut a dart like you just don’t care? This is the bizarre skill that is needed to be a...

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Embossed Textiles by Tiffany Loy

Textiles and “The Emboss Machine” created by Tiffany Loy 2012-2015. One of the areas where industrial design and fashion design often crossover with amazing consequences is in textile design; a medium...

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Multicoloured Details from Ports 1961

Ports 1961, RST16, New York.The Spring-Summer 2016 pre-collection from Ports 1961 was filled with pops of vivid colour set against a neutral canvas of whites and creams. Different trims and...

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Balancing Frames and Canvas at Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf, Couture, AW15, Paris.In a show that saw artworks exploding off the wall to form couture gowns, Viktor and Rolf created garments that exaggerated the balancing acts that lie at the...

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Recycled Yarns & 3D Weaving by Moa Hallgren

Weaving from the Texture collection by Moa Hallgren, 2015.As part of an interesting cultural exchange between Berlin and Bangladesh, Moa Hallgren has created a range of textiles that are woven from...

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Spongy Synthetics at Prada

Prada, AW15, Milan.For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, Miuccia Prada played with cartoonish silhouettes in a spongy synthetic, which looked like a neoprene material but was actually a double-faced...

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Pattern Shaping at Balenciaga

Balenciaga, AW15, Paris.Some time ago, we discussed some of the different ways you can position fabric on the body to create different sleeve shapes. In particular, there are many different design...

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Spotlight Details at Anrealage

Anrealage, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Anrealage revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure...

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Fabric Manipulations at Chanel

Chanel, AW15, Paris.Mixed among the traditional tweeds and bouclés of the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2015 collection were a number of fabric manipulations that added volume and texture to the garments.At...

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Bold & Subtle Details at Dior Couture

Christian Dior, AW15, Haute Couture, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Christian Dior was filled with bold, immediate design elements such as contrast sleeves and asymmetric outerwear but...

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Wearable Innovation at Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton, AW15, Paris.Nicholas Ghesquière has a knack for creating collections that look very wearable but that are still filled with quietly innovative construction details and carefully...

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Pleats and Contrasts at Kenzo

Kenzo, AW15, Paris.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Kenzo included some interesting pattern cutting details to create draped details and subtle folds of fullness. At times, sportswear colours and...

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