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Crushed and Creased Tailoring at Gucci
Gucci, AW15, Milan.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection at Gucci had a more subtle atmosphere, a more come-as-you-are version of “fashion” with pieces layered together in a way that felt lived-in. In...
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Lingerie and Tailoring at Givenchy
Givenchy, SS16, New York.The Givenchy Spring-Summer 2016 collection combined the silky sensuality of lingerie with the strictness of tailoring topped off with lashings of embellishment.The lingerie...
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Shattered, Pleated Appliqué at Thom Browne
Thom Browne, SS16, New York.The layered suiting ensembles at Thom Browne for Spring-Summer 2016 were embellished with carefully worked appliqué. The motifs were cut in a variety of fabrics and subtle...
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Is it ever ok to have bad finishes?
Yeezy, SS16, New York.While looking at the Yeezy collection for Spring-Summer 2016 with puckered seams and wavy zippers, a question began to form about how to evaluate the construction techniques of a...
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Coordinated Chaos at Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten, SS16, Paris.A few years ago now we did an article that asked How Many Fabrics in the Dries Van Noten Show? and laid out the collection as swatches. Since the Dries Van Noten show for...
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Graphic Movement at Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane, SS16, London.As ever, the catwalk show for Spring-Summer 2016 showed the latest results from the Christopher Kane laboratory. In many ways, this collection seemed to combine the...
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Pure Construction at Christian Dior
Christian Dior, SS16, Paris.After the recent news that Raf Simons would no longer be the artistic director at Dior (for women’s RTW, Haute Couture and accessories), it seemed a fitting time to...
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Deconstructed Americana at Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs, SS16, New York.In a palette of red, white and blue the Marc Jacobs collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was thick with Americana references and slathered with glittering stars and stripes....
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Lace Engineering at Céline
Céline, SS16, Paris.There are certain garments where the feats of construction at work are well-known, such as the layers of canvas and horsehair used to mould fabric for tailored jackets. Other...
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Fractured Layers at Off-White
Off-White, SS16, Paris.The Off-White collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was filled with deconstructed finishes and patchworked denim set against crisp white t-shirts and structured pleating.While raw...
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Wearable Architecture at DZHUS
DZHUS, “Totalitarium”, AW15, Kiev.The Autumn-Winter 2015 collection for DZHUS was filled with geometric details that used tucks and pleating to fold fabric around the body. Designer Irina Dzhus spoke...
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Rethinking Seams at Noir Kei Ninomiya
Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris.For many designers, the basic construction elements of a garment are quite simple - you take 2D pieces of fabric and join them together, usually by sewing seams, to...
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Flounces and Ruffles
Noir Kei Ninomiya, SS16, Paris.At times, words are used interchangeably to describe certain fabric details. In a fashion journalism context this is generally ok because if someone talks about the...
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Pattern Making Details from 2015
In order to put the year into context, it seems like a good time to revisit some of the details that piqued our interest in 2015. Over the next few weeks we’ll revisit some of the year’s most popular...
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Fabric and Textile Details from 2015
From scraped silicone to embossing machines, chiffon rose petals to sketchy beading, 2015 was filled with different types of embellishments for fabrics and textiles. Often what made these...
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Finding the Balance for Casual Luxury
Part of what has been interesting about 2015 has been watching as designers continue to use construction details as a way to strike a balance in their collections. An underlying question seems to be...
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Thinking Like a Designer
In this final round-up post about the articles from 2015, we’ve gathered together some food for thought if you are about to become a fashion designer, or fashion design student yourself. From sketching...
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Pattern and Print at Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci, PF16.Historically, Pucci is a brand that is synonymous with print. By looking through the Pre-Fall 2016 collection by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, you can see some of the...
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Lace Engineering at Céline
Céline, SS16, Paris. There are certain garments where the feats of construction at work are well-known, such as the layers of canvas and horsehair used to mould fabric for tailored jackets. Other...
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Fractured Layers at Off-White
Off-White, SS16, Paris. The Off-White collection for Spring-Summer 2016 was filled with deconstructed finishes and patchworked denim set against crisp white t-shirts and structured pleating. -->...
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